My apartment is tragically lacking in good, natural lighting – especially after 4ish in the afternoon. This made it hard to take good pics of the materials for my Phoebe Dress before I cut into it. The pic above is quite accurate when it comes to colours, so it will have to do for now. The purple is a lovely, medium weight silk twill, and the grey is a thinner silk to serve as the lining. I’ve been way too precious about these fabrics for much too long… they have been in my stash for probably three years. I thought they were from my 2013 Paris trip (the only reason I remember when that was, is that I blogged about it), but the post with all the fabrics from that trip does not contain these fabrics. To my great shame that means that this fabric is probably even a year older than this. To my even greater shame, looking back at that post made me realise that I haven’t used ANY of those fabrics.
Because I have 3 metres of the main fabric, and I’m no longer very attached to it, I’m not going to make a muslin. I did a quick tissue fitting to see if there were any major problems, but I think it will be alright. I will, however, baste the whole dress together for a fitting before stitching it properly.
Based on my measurements (34/27/38) I graded from a size 2 in the bust to a 4 in the waist and to a 6 in the hips. This dress will probably be way too fancy for any everyday occasion, but the other day I had to go to a fancy party, and realised that I got rid of almost all my dresses. Hopefully this will be a good addition to my closet again.
Eep! The last two weeks have been very stressful and have really cut into my sewing time and mojo. But luckily the most pressing issue (that of a job after the summer) has been resolved, so now only my thesis remains as this continuous looming presence…
Anyway, I’ve managed to be quite productive on the thesis-front today, so I figured an hour or so of sewing would be fine. As you can see I don’t have much to show for my final Hawthorn yet, but it’s slowly and steadily getting there. Actually, seeing as I have changed the pattern so as not to have a peplum, I’m not even that far behind! I’m doing the version 2 sleeve, so I have another 3 days to get ready to set in the sleeve. Sewing the side seams somewhere in the next few days should be doable…
I’ve been making the most of the few free days I have before I have to lock myself in the library to finish my thesis, so here’s my first version of Hawthorn!
Pattern: Colette Hawthorn
Fabric: Thin cotton sateen
Time: around 7 hours (including taping/cutting the pattern)
Total cost: around €15,- (€11,- for the pattern, barely anything for the fabric & notions, because they’re left-overs.
For this initial version I cut a straight size 2 and put it together without any alterations. I did a quick fitting of the bodice before attaching the collar and everything, but it seemed to be quite fine. I’m pretty happy with the result. It’s an adorable little blouse that went together without any real problems. On the photos it seems to pull a little bit in the back, but that’s probably just how I’m standing.
The only thing that I have a problem with has everything to do with me and absolutely nothing with the pattern: I don’t know how to wear it. I’m so used to wearing my shirts tucked into high-waisted skirts, that this new silhouette looks really weird to me. For these quick photos I’ve matched it with a red pencil skirt, which looks nice, but somehow I have the feeling that I look a bit dowdy and matronly (which I know is probably just my perception). I will start wearing it though, because I’m sure it will grow on me when I combine it in different ways.
(Please ignore my “straight-out-of-the-shower” face and hair, the sky was getting very cloudy and I don’t think there would’ve been much more light left later).
Anyway, I am reconsidering my coral/white dotted fabric for this one. If I already find this version a bit too girly and dainty, I’m sure that will just be too much. I am going to make a black sleeveless dress version though, because I do really like this pattern.
I’ve taken a trip to the fabric market and found my choices for the Hawthorn sew-along! All I’ve planned for now are two blouse versions, but I also have a black eyelet that would look lovely as the sleeveless dress version. It needs buttons and underlining though, so it might not be finished on time.
This is the “real” fabric. I fell for the bright coral colour immediately, even though it doesn’t really fit in my wardrobe. I guess you could call this one “frosting”. I might use the white ribbon for a waist stay or something… not sure yet. I’m also debating whether to go for the short sleeves or the cuffed ones. I love the cuffed ones, but thing it might look too prissy with this colour…
The navy on white dots will be my wearable muslin. It’s an amazing fabric, so I really hope that it fits, but since I already have a blouse made out of it (which somehow didn’t make the blog) it’s no big deal if it doesn’t.
I also have a big floral I’m unsure about. It’s white, navy and turqoise and I bought it on an impulse, but I don’t know if it’s suitable for this one… I guess it depends on how much I like the cut of the blouse to begin with. Peplums are a new thing for me, I usually tuck in all my shirts.
As of today, I’ve traced and cut the pattern, and am ready to start sewing my “muslin”. I cut a straight size 2, which matches my bust and waist exactly. Because it’s cut very wide at the hips, I decided not to grade up to my usual size 6 from the waist down. Here’s to hoping it fits right the first time around!
Because I’ve got my heart set on making the blouse version first, I’ve scoured the internet for nice peplum blouses to combine into one perfect one! Here’s a selection. Perhaps you’ll feel inspired too! (And by “scouring the internet” I mean typing “peplum blouse” into the Pinterest search bar.)
Right now, I’m thinking of doing lace on the yoke and sleeves, and probably making the whole thing mustard coloured. Or perhaps I’ll go for dots, or something else, or whatever I find on the market Saturday!
Mixing transparent and opaque fabrics?
From Honey mi Honey, but I couldn’t find it on their website anymore.
Another take on the lace yoke/sleeves.
No idea where this one’s from… People on Pinterest aren’t great with linking to the original source.
I have a thing for mustard, and lace…
Can’t go wrong with dots, but perhaps a bit safe?
A Lauren Conrad blouse, if the info was correct.