WIP: Fancy Phoebe

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My apartment is tragically lacking in good, natural lighting – especially after 4ish in the afternoon. This made it hard to take good pics of the materials for my Phoebe Dress before I cut into it. The pic above is quite accurate when it comes to colours, so it will have to do for now. The purple is a lovely, medium weight silk twill, and the grey is a thinner silk to serve as the lining. I’ve been way too precious about these fabrics for much too long… they have been in my stash for probably three years. I thought they were from my 2013 Paris trip (the only reason I remember when that was, is that I blogged about it), but the post with all the fabrics from that trip does not contain these fabrics. To my great shame that means that this fabric is probably even a year older than this. To my even greater shame, looking back at that post made me realise that I haven’t used ANY of those fabrics.

UntitledBecause I have 3 metres of the main fabric, and I’m no longer very attached to it, I’m not going to make a muslin. I did a quick tissue fitting to see if there were any major problems, but I think it will be alright. I will, however, baste the whole dress together for a fitting before stitching it properly.

Based on my measurements (34/27/38) I graded from a size 2 in the bust to a 4 in the waist and to a 6 in the hips. This dress will probably be way too fancy for any everyday occasion, but the other day I had to go to a fancy party, and realised that I got rid of almost all my dresses. Hopefully this will be a good addition to my closet again.

Hawthorn Sewalong: WIP Update

Hawthorn WIP

Eep! The last two weeks have been very stressful and have really cut into my sewing time and mojo. But luckily the most pressing issue (that of a job after the summer) has been resolved, so now only my thesis remains as this continuous looming presence…

Anyway, I’ve managed to be quite productive on the thesis-front today, so I figured an hour or so of sewing would be fine. As you can see I don’t have much to show for my final Hawthorn yet, but it’s slowly and steadily getting there. Actually, seeing as I have changed the pattern so as not to have a peplum, I’m not even that far behind! I’m doing the version 2 sleeve, so I have another 3 days to get ready to set in the sleeve. Sewing the side seams somewhere in the next few days should be doable…

Hawthorn Sew-along: Wearable Muslin

I’ve been making the most of the few free days I have before I have to lock myself in the library to finish my thesis, so here’s my first version of Hawthorn!

Hawthorn: Wearable Muslin

Pattern: Colette Hawthorn
Fabric: Thin cotton sateen
Time: around 7 hours (including taping/cutting the pattern)
Total cost: around €15,- (€11,- for the pattern, barely anything for the fabric & notions, because they’re left-overs.

For this initial version I cut a straight size 2 and put it together without any alterations. I did a quick fitting of the bodice before attaching the collar and everything, but it seemed to be quite fine. I’m pretty happy with the result. It’s an adorable little blouse that went together without any real problems. On the photos it seems to pull a little bit in the back, but that’s probably just how I’m standing.

Hawthorn: Wearable Muslin

The only thing that I have a problem with has everything to do with me and absolutely nothing with the pattern: I don’t know how to wear it. I’m so used to wearing my shirts tucked into high-waisted skirts, that this new silhouette looks really weird to me.  For these quick photos I’ve matched it with a red pencil skirt, which looks nice, but somehow I have the feeling that I look a bit dowdy and matronly (which I know is probably just my perception). I will start wearing it though, because I’m sure it will grow on me when I combine it in different ways.

Hawthorn: Wearable muslin

(Please ignore my “straight-out-of-the-shower” face and hair, the sky was getting very cloudy and I don’t think there would’ve been much more light left later).

Anyway, I am reconsidering my coral/white dotted fabric for  this one. If I already find this version a bit too girly and dainty, I’m sure that will just be too much. I am going to make a black sleeveless dress version though, because I do really like this pattern.

Hawthorn Sew-Along: Fabric Choices

Colette Hawthorn: FabricsI’ve taken a trip to the fabric market and found my choices for the Hawthorn sew-along! All I’ve planned for now are two blouse versions, but I also have a black eyelet that would look lovely as the sleeveless dress version. It needs buttons and underlining though, so it might not be finished on time.

This is the “real” fabric. I fell for the bright coral colour immediately, even though it doesn’t really fit in my wardrobe. I guess you could call this one “frosting”. I might use the white ribbon for a waist stay or something… not sure yet. I’m also debating whether to go for the short sleeves or the cuffed ones. I love the cuffed ones, but thing it might look too prissy with this colour…

Colette Hawthorn: Fabrics

The navy on white dots will be my wearable muslin. It’s an amazing fabric, so I really hope that it fits, but since I already have a blouse made out of it (which somehow didn’t make the blog) it’s no big deal if it doesn’t.

I also have a big floral I’m unsure about.  It’s white, navy and turqoise and I bought it on an impulse, but I don’t know if it’s suitable for this one… I guess it depends on how much I like the cut of the blouse to begin with. Peplums are a new thing for me, I usually tuck in all my shirts.

As of today, I’ve traced and cut the pattern, and am ready to start sewing my  “muslin”. I cut a straight size 2, which matches my bust and waist exactly. Because it’s cut very wide at the hips, I decided not to grade up to my usual size 6 from the waist down. Here’s to hoping it fits right the first time around!

Hawthorn Sew-Along: Blouse Inspiration

Because I’ve got my heart set on making the blouse version first, I’ve scoured the internet for nice peplum blouses to combine into one perfect one! Here’s a selection. Perhaps you’ll feel inspired too! (And by “scouring the internet” I mean typing “peplum blouse” into the Pinterest search bar.)

Right now, I’m thinking of doing lace on the yoke and sleeves, and probably making the whole thing mustard coloured. Or perhaps I’ll go for dots, or something else, or whatever I find on the market Saturday!

Mixing transparent and opaque fabrics?
From Honey mi Honey, but I couldn’t find it on their website anymore.

Another take on the lace yoke/sleeves.  No idea where this one's from... People on Pinterest aren't great with linking to the original source.

Another take on the lace yoke/sleeves.
No idea where this one’s from… People on Pinterest aren’t great with linking to the original source.

I have a thing for mustard, and lace... (Anthropologie)

I have a thing for mustard, and lace…
(Anthropologie)

Can't go wrong with dots, but perhaps a bit safe? A Lauren Conrad blouse, if the info was correct.

Can’t go wrong with dots, but perhaps a bit safe?
A Lauren Conrad blouse, if the info was correct.

Hawthorn Sew-Along: The plans

hawthorn-sew-along1-650x433

Oh my… when the going gets tough (or busy, more accurately) the blog most definitely does not get going. But it’s almost time for the summer holidays! (Which in my world is known as the “weeks of hellish thesis writing and translating a book”, but for now I’m pretending it is actually a holiday.)

cp1026-11-hawthorn-large-3cbf9b7afb1ade19213150fee5ee1ae3Anyway! I’ve decided to give myself a kick in the pants, buy the latest Colette Pattern (Hawthorn) and participate in their sew-along. The pattern is gorgeous, but to be honest the magnificent selection of prizes gave me the final push! Tomorrow I’m going stash shopping to see if I have anything that is suitable and enough, or if I have to make a trip to the market next Saturday.

I’m probably going to make the blouse version first,and then a dress version with a pencil skirt. I have fabric lying around for at least 5 blouses and I need more separates!

I have managed to finish some pieces over the past weeks, so hopefully the weather will clear up a bit and I’ll be able to get some good pictures soon!

Sew Colette: Meringue Muslin

Meringue Muslin frontThis weekend I managed to sew up part of my first Meringue skirt. I wasn’t too sure about the fabric at first, but to my surprise I am really liking the look of it so far. It’s a fairly heavy fabric, so it should hold the scallops nicely.

Anyway, let’s have a look at the fit. I’m quite happy with the overall fit, although I took a bit of a gamble by cutting a straight size 2 while my hips are actually a 6. The only adjustment I made to the pattern before even cutting the fabric is a swayback adjustment of 1cm, because I had to take out that length on my sloper at first too. To be sure I put my perfectly fitted skirt sloper on top of the pattern, and it promised to work out quite well. I am going to simply finish this one without any adjustments – I will get plenty of wear out of it anyway, but for the next version I will make the following changes:

Meringue Muslin side

  • Take out 2cm total at the waist. (0.5 cm on each of the darts).
  • Add a little bit of room between my waist and my hips. It has a tendency to pucker around my belly a bit because the skirt is a little tight there and  wants to creep up.
  • Have a good look at the darts. As you can see in this side view They don’t really lie nicely at the points. I don’t know if it’s a problem with the darts, the fabric, my stitching or my pressing, but I hope to remedy it on a next version.
  • Not fit related, but I’m planning to make pockets and a waistband on the next version as well. Any interest in a tutorial on adding pockets to a basic skirt?

Speaking of tutorials, stay tuned for a tutorial on adding a lining to the Meringue skirt. I have taken practically all the pictures, so I hope to find some time to write it up before I leave for Paris on Thursday!