Right, it is the beginning of the month again… Time for a review of the Burdastyle Preview. This promises to be a good issue, because there’s already quite a few things that I like. Let’s start with the YAYs, and then move on through the MEHs towards the NAYs.
Wow, now I’ve finally started both my teaching internship and my teaching classes at university, time seems to fly by. I can’t imagine that it’s already been almost two weeks since my last post.
Anyway, I have managed to squeeze in some sewing, and hopefully both the weather and my boyfriend will cooperate so I can get some pictures done. One of the things I made is a simple cowl neck tee, from one of the free patterns that came with my Marfy catalogue (nr 3075 in the picture below). The whole catalogue is very inspiring! I ordered it to use for drafting practice on half or quarter scale, but there’s plenty of stuff in there that I’d love to make for myself.
I’m staying in Amsterdam this week to make dinner etc. for my little sister, and that made a trip to Kantje Boord a little quicker than it would be from Utrecht. Unfortunately that also means that I don’t have my camera on me, and although my phone has a decent camera what looks pink in the photos is in fact a neon-coral kind of colour. I bought lace, lycra and all other supplies to make a bra and at least two or three panties. Impatient as I am, I really wanted to start something, but I don’t have my pattern drawing book or my chart with measurements with me.
As usual, the internet came to my rescue. Last week, Melissa from Fehr Trade posted a free PDF pattern for a “lacey thong”. Normally I loathe PDF patterns because of all the sticking together, but luckily thongs aren’t very big. I’m usually between Burda sizes 36-38 in my hips, so I cut out an M. In the end I took it in by about 3 cm in total because it was rather loose. On a next version, I’ll probably also take out about 1,5 cm from the crotch length, because it doesn’t sit as nicely as I’d hoped.
Putting together this tiny pair of panties caused much swearing and sighing. Absolutely NONE of that is the pattern’s fault. I’m so used to using patterns without a seam allowance, that I instantly stopped thinking when I saw that the seam allowance was included. However, because my picot elastic is 1 cm wide instead of 0,6 cm (1/4″) I should have added some more seam allowance so I could have aligned the elastic with the raw edge. Now I had to mark te seam line and align the elastic to that, which proved to be much more fiddly than necessary.
One thing I chanced in the sewing of the undies, is leaving the crotch lining free in the back. This is absolutely no problem, because the picot elastic will hold it in place. I didn’t sew it between the back and the crotch pieces because otherwise it’d get too bulky for that tiny width. If I make another one, I’ll put the back piece and the crotch piece together for the outside to eliminate any seams in that area (which obviously just a euphimism for “between my butt cheeks”)
Final Verdict: Great little pattern, I’m probably going to make quite a few more! The only wise piece of advice I have about it, is check your elastic against the seam allowance!
The section “Blütenträume” is fantastic, and some of the others seem promising too! I’m curious to see what the complete selection will be like. I ignored the Plus section this time, because it all seemed rather dull and tunic-y. I hope that’ll be better in April.
For the last couple of years I have made a dress to wear for the family Christmas dinner. This year, I figured I wouldn’t have any time, so I bought one. But of course, a week before Christmas I changed my mind and decided to sew something. Enter the wiggle dress!
Ever since I’ve gotten my hands on Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing I’ve been itching to make practically everything from it. Wouldn’t it be fun if someone would blog all their sewing from her book just as she did for Vogue’s Book for Better Sewing? I’m not one to make that kind of commitment in advance, but there’s quite a chance that I’ll at least make most of the patterns at some point.
I absolutely LOVE that Gertie has already adjusted her standard sizing for those who are a size bigger in the hips than in the rest of their body. I cut a straight size 4, which matches my body measurements almost exactly, and did not make any adjustments to this version. It fits very well, but it would not have fit if the fabric hadn’t had any stretch.
The fabric is a (mostly) polyester, slightly stretchy fabric. It’s very comfy in the bodice, but as you can see on the pictures it is a little too flimsy for the skirt. It shows absolutely every underwear line possible, so I can only wear it with one of my high-waisted, lace edged panties because even a thong will show lines at the hips. (I don’t mind, I don’t care much for thongs anyway.)
Construction wise I did not do anything special on this dress (apart from struggling with the underarm gussets because I somehow misunderstood the instructions…) The seams are tragically unfinished, but that’s not that big a deal because the fabric hardly frays. I did use an invisible zipper instead of a proper lapped zipper in the back, simply because I had one on hand that was a perfect match and I would’ve had to go out to get a normal one.
Final Verdict: Love the pattern, and this version is definitely wearable. I’m already planning another version in something with a little more body, but also with some stretch. Perhaps a nice stretch cotton sateen or something similar.
My first finished thing of the year! I’ve been learning to make lingerie since last September, and slowly but steadily am I getting the hang of it. This is the first set I made that wasn’t part of any assignment or instruction. It was fairly easy to draft and sew, but getting the stripes to match on the front of the panties was a pain in the ass.
The fit isn’t perfect unfortunately- after a day of wearing I still really want to take the bra off – but it’s mostly wearable. The cups fit beautifully though, and I love the possibilities they give for combining different fabrics. The stripey fabric is a rather flimsy viscose knit from an old summer dress that has seen better days. It doesn’t give that much support, but at my small size that’s not a big issue.
The inspiration for this set came from a challenge on a Dutch forum about making lingerie. Forum members could vote for the theme, and because there was a tie between “stripes” and “love” both themes were chosen. It’s probably not hard to guess which theme I went for, but the pink adds a bit of “love”, doesn’t it?
January has only just begun, but Burdastyle.de always has the preview of the next issue up very early in the month. It seems to be a promising issue.
From the theme “Urban Safari” I only really like the asymmetrical top from this picture. Perhaps I’m just tricked by the gorgeous jewel-like purple, but it seems beautiful. It’s a pity the technical drawings aren’t available yet, because I’m not sure if the shoulders are asymmetrical too, or if it’s just the hem.
Actually, taking a look at the flat photographs, the skirt might be quite pretty too. It is just really hard to make out the pleating details and the curved hem in such a busy print (which doesn’t even scream “safari” to me to be honest…).
I’m a bit torn about this one actually. Again, I think I might just be lured in by the fabric rather than the cut but it would probably be nice in a very drapey viscose jersey. This is actually the only pattern that I might consider buying the magazine for, because everything else seems easy enough to draft myself. I’ll probably end up having a quick look at the pattern pieces in the store though, so I can hopefully figure it out myself.
Have you had a look at next month’s Burdastyle Magazine yet? If so, which ones are your favourites? One of the beautiful wedding dresses from the plus size selection, or perhaps a hippie-style tunic?